Gasteria belongs to the genus of aloe-type succulents and is native to South Africa. It takes its name from the Greek word gaster, meaning ‘belly’, the reference being to its stomach shaped flowers. Commonly, it’s also called ‘ox-tongue’, owing to its typically long leaves with a rough texture. Its more than 20 species display interesting patterns on flat, fleshy, and waxy leaves. The leaves can vary in length from an inch to over a foot, and the surface can have white bands or spots or be warty. The fleshy leaves are fragile to touch and can break easily.
Choosing the pot
Like many succulents, gasteria have a shallow root system. Opting for a shallow and wide container with several drainage holes is a good choice. Unglazed, terracotta pots allow excess moisture to evaporate through the walls, thus preventing rot issues from over-watering. Repotting the plant is not required frequently, as gasteria plants grow slowly and do not increase much in size even at maturity.
Soil
As with other succulents, a fast-draining potting mixture with an ample amount of gritty material or sand is needed. Good drainage is an important factor for a plant’s health, as moisture-retaining soil can quickly lead to rotting.
Water requirement
Here we go by the rule: the less, the better, as gasteria is a drought-tolerant plant growing in desert regions. The soil is allowed to dry out completely between the waterings. Over-watering leads to a softened center and brown leaves. Moisture should not be allowed to settle either in the crown of the plant or underneath the pot. During the summer, plants can be watered frequently as the soil dries up quickly. In winter, as the plant undergoes dormancy, it will need very little or no water. Avoid watering completely during the rainy season and protect from rainfall. Under-watering causes drooping and drying leaves with stunted growth.
Light
Gasteria enjoys a bright location with just a few hours of morning or evening direct light. Hot, scorching afternoon sunlight can lead to dehydration and severe dehydration. Brown edges of leaves and scorched, yellowish surfaces indicate overexposure to the sun. During the winter, the plant can be kept in sunlight the whole day.
Fertilizer
At the time of planting, about 10% of the compost can be mixed with potting mix. Light fertilization once a year in the spring is enough for the gasteria plant.
Flowering
As the temperatures rise in spring, an active growth period starts, and the mature plants produce a spike reaching up to 30cm in height. Pink or red-colored, tubular, curved blooms appear on the spike, which last for several days. The flowers are edible and can be eaten raw or cooked in gravy.
Propagation
Gasteria can be propagated by separating pups or offsets and by leaf cuttings.
- Offset Division: It is best done during the spring. The pup is removed from the parent plant using a clean, sharp knife, including as many roots as possible. Alternatively, the pup can be snapped carefully from the mother plant using your hands. The offset is allowed to dry and callus over before repotting. The same soil is used as for the mother plant, and the pot is kept in a bright, warm spot till new growth is noticed in a few weeks’ time.
- Leaf cuttings: A single leaf or even a broken part placed on top of a moist succulent potting mixture prompts root growth and the start of new life. It is an easy method for propagating and saving a damaged plant. When small roots are noticed, the basal is placed into the soil at an angle. With the right conditions provided, new ones emerge within a few weeks.
Diseases
Gasteria can develop fungal infections when exposed to too much humidity or water on leaves, especially the crown area. Black spots can be noticed due to infection, which can be treated by using fungicide and keeping the plant dry with more air moving around it.
Toxicity
If parts of the gasteria plant are consumed accidentally, vomiting, nausea, and loss of appetite can occur.